Types of Leather and Grades: A Simple Guide & What’s Best for Your Next Leather Project

If you’re a creative who’s just getting started with leatherwork, then shopping for leather can get confusing quickly. You’ll come across all types of labels, from “full-grain leather” to “real leather,” or even just ‘leather.’ But what do all these labels mean, and how do you separate the real from the fake? When you love to craft, knowing how to differentiate is more important than ever. At Resparked, we’re crafting experts. We understand what choosing the right leather (and the wrong one) can do for your project. You’ll either end up with a beautiful finished piece that lasts for years to come, or something you’ll hide under your bed and forget about.

In this guide, we’ll talk you through all the different types of leather and their grades, so when it comes to choosing the right leather, you’ll know exactly what to pick.

Key Takeaways

• Leather grades describe the quality of the leather and how much of the original animal hide is left at the end of the process.
• Full-grain, vegetable-tanned leather is the most durable type of leather, and popular for a lot of creative projects.
• Full-grain leather develops a rich patina over time and gives you clean engraving results.
• The label “genuine leather" usually means the material is real leather, but it’s likely a lower-grade product made from the bottom layers of the hide.
• We recommend sticking with full-grain cowhide if you’re engraving, stamping, or just getting started with beginner craft kits.
• Chrome-tanned leather is best for sewing and garments but is less predictable for carving and traditional tooling.

What Does “Leather Grade” Actually Mean?

In terms of leather, the “grade” describes the structural purity of the product after splitting. For example, you’ll find that a high-quality leather grade keeps most of the natural grain layer intact, whereas a lower grade will strip layers away and replace it with something artificial.

The leather industry uses lots of different language to describe the quality of leather, but, for the majority of shoppers, it can be hard to understand exactly what they mean. This is especially true if you’re a beginner to leatherworking. However, once you understand what each grade actually means, it can make picking the right leather for your project much easier.

• Grain Layer: The grade of a hide depends on how much of the natural grain layer survives the process of splitting, sanding, etc.
• Marketing Language: Look out for words like “premium” when you’re shopping for leather, as they don’t always match the real quality grade underneath.

What Are the Different Types of Leather?

Most sources agree that there are six core grades of leather. They are as follows:

Leather Types in More Detail

1. Full-Grain Leather

Full-grain leather is exceptionally high quality and holds up well to daily wear and tear, which is why many creatives choose to use it for their projects. It keeps the entire outer layer of the hide, including small scars, wrinkles, and other natural markings, and nothing is sanded away, so the natural grain stays fully visible.

One of the best things about full-grain leather is that it won’t crack or peel; instead, you can expect this type of leather to develop a rich patina (color transformation) over the years. This is why full-grain leather often costs more than other grades.

Did You Know? At Resparked, we use this type of leather for our crafting kits. Why? Because it’s the highest quality leather grade you can get. This means when you work on a leather project, such as a DIY leather bag kit, you’ll end up with a beloved piece that lasts for years to come.

2. Top-Grain Leather

Top-grain leather comes from the same top layer of the hide as full-grain, but manufacturers sand or buff the surface to remove flaws. This creates a smoother, more uniform appearance and a softer texture straight away.

You’ll find that top-grain leather is used constantly for items like wallets, bags, cases and footwear. This is because the smoother finish of top-grain leather suits products that benefit from having a consistent look.

3. Corrected Grain Leather

Corrected grain leather is where the manufacturer has buffed away more of the leather’s surface, and then stamped a grain pattern on top to hide the correction. This type of leather also usually has been given a pigmented coating afterward and, because of this, some buyers see corrected grain and pigmented leather described as the same product.

Although corrected grain leather gives a smooth and consistent appearance, the trade-off for this is that it lacks natural character.

4. Genuine Leather

Compared to full-grain and top-grain leather, genuine leather comes from a lower layer of the hide, after the higher grades have already been removed. The label “genuine leather” is accurate, as the material does come from the animal and not plastic. However, it’s also misleading if you’re not familiar with the terminology – just because the leather is genuine, it doesn’t mean it’s high-quality. Retailers and suppliers like to use the label genuine because it sounds reassuring, even though the leather isn’t as high-quality as other options.

Quick Note – If you see leather described as “full-grain genuine leather,” don’t be alarmed. It’s still full-grain, which is the highest quality level of leather you can get. It’s the label “genuine leather” on its own that you need to watch out for.

5. Split Leather

Split leather gets its name from the process – it comes from the fibrous under-layer of the hide, after the top-grain has been “split” off. This type of leather is pretty low quality, as it doesn’t have the tight fiber structure that makes higher grades durable. Because of this, manufacturers will often turn split leather into suede leather, or they might adhere a laminated, printed finish over the top of it. Split leather doesn’t have any natural grain of its own, which is why it needs heavy finishing to look presentable.

6. Bonded Leather

Bonded leather is the lowest quality of leather, being made out of leftover scraps and dust. Manufacturers grind those scraps down and then use polyurethane or another polymer to bind those fragments together. This creates something presentable.

Although bonded leather may look like real leather from a distance, it doesn’t share any of its strength and quality. Bonded leather is a terrible choice for home leatherworking projects (even beginner projects), as it wears out faster than other types of leather and is more likely to crack and peel. In addition, bonded leather won’t develop the beautifully rich patina that full-grain and top-grain leather does over time.

Leather Type Versus Leather Grade

The leather grade and the leather type are two different things. The grade refers to the quality and cut of the leather, whereas the type of leather tells you which animal the leather comes from in the first place. Both these things are important to consider when choosing leather for leatherworking, as they affect how a finished piece will look and feel.

• Cowhide: This is the most common animal hide in the leather industry, and it’s prized for its thickness and durability. It’s a great choice for the majority of leatherworking projects.
• Lambskin and Goat: Lambskin leather is soft and supple, and goat leather sits between cowhide and lambskin in terms of thickness.
• Exotic Leather: Exotic leather comes from exotic animals like alligator, snake, or ostrich, and it typically costs a lot more than standard cowhide. There are also concerns around how ethical this type of leather is.

It’s worth keeping in mind here that split-grain leather is not tied to one single animal hide, and manufacturers often pull this under-layer from cowhide, goat, or several other sources during processing.

What About Italian Leather?

Italian leather isn’t a separate grade or type of leather – it’s a geographic craftsmanship label. The name comes from where it’s made: in Italy. Furthermore, Italian leather is usually made from full-grain leather using trusted, traditional methods. The reason why shoppers often pay more for Italian leather is down to its reputation for traditional tanning (we’ll come to the tanning process next).

The Tanning Process and How It Shapes Leather Quality

All leather goes through a tanning process, taking it from a raw animal hide to a leather material that we use for bags, boots, couches, jackets, and more. This process gives the leather the flexibility and strength that we all expect from leather goods, and ultimately is why the leather looks and feels a certain way as it ages.

Vegetable-Tanned Leather

Vegetable-tanned leather is tanned using tree bark plant extracts instead of synthetic chemicals. The process may take longer than other ways of tanning, but it’s definitely worth it, as it means you end up with high-quality leather that darkens over time and develops a rich, beautiful patina, making the leather one of a kind.

Because of the beautiful way it ages and how easily it showcases fine details, many creatives choose to use vegetable-tanned leather for things like stamping and engraving.

Chrome-Tanned Leather

Chrome-tanned leather is made using chromium salts, which means the process is a lot faster. This method of tanning gives the leather a much softer texture and a lighter weight, and, because of this, you’ll often find chrome-tanned leather in leather furniture, such as couches and stools, and automotive upholstery.

Leather Finishes That Change the Look and Feel

Tanning is only a part of the process. Once it’s finished, manufacturers move on to the next step. They apply a surface finish that can affect the color and texture of the finished product, as well as how the leather handles daily wear and tear. This process is why two high-quality pieces of full-grain or top-grain leather can end up looking completely different.

Aniline Leather

Aniline leather is dyed using soluble dye and is made to feel soft and luxurious to the touch. This dye soaks into the hide, covering the natural grain with a translucent pigment layer. It doesn’t use any opaque pigments or topcoats, which is how this finish keeps all the natural markings and texture fully visible.

Semi-Aniline Leather

The process of making semi-aniline leather begins the same way as aniline leather, being dyed with soluble dyes. However, the difference is that semi-aniline ends up with a very light protective top coating. This addition creates a more consistent and uniform appearance across the leather, but most of the natural grain underneath is still on show.

Pigmented Leather

A pigmented leather finish is given a heavier coating of color, as well as a protective topcoat. The idea of this process is to hide natural imperfections, giving the leather a fully consistent appearance. The color and topcoat create a barrier, which protects the leather from stains and scratches. Because of this, it’s often used for furniture and car upholstery.

Patent Leather

This leather has been treated with a glossy, plastic-like coating (typically polyurethane or acrylic), and ends up with an almost mirror-like feel. Because of that, this type of finish provides a leather that’s waterproof and resistant to stains.

Pull-Up Leather

This type of finish contains oils and waxes and, consequently, is also known as “wax or oil pull-up.” These waxes cause the leather to lighten in color when it stretches, which gives it a worn, vintage look.

Embossed Leather

This finish creates an exotic texture without you having to purchase exotic leather. It’s where you stamp specific textures, like a crocodile or snake texture on top of the leather.

Distressed Leather

This finishing process is designed to make the leather look well-worn and aged from day one. This type of finish embraces surface variations such as a shift in color, scratches, scars, and wrinkles.

What is Suede Leather and Nubuck Leather?

People often confuse suede and nubuck leather, but they’re actually different. Their difference lies in their origin – they both come from different parts of the hide.

• Suede Leather – This type of leather comes from the split grain layer beneath the surface. It’s then sanded on the inner side, which is what gives it that famous, soft, and slightly fuzzy texture.
• Nubuck Leather – You’ll find that nubuck leather is sourced from the outer grain side of the hide. This creates a similar velvety feel to suede, but it has more strength underneath.

Because it’s pulled from the top-grain layer of the hide, nubuck leather can handle wear and tear better than its suede counterpart, which makes it a good choice for boots and jackets. However, it’s a lot more sensitive to water than standard leather.

What is Faux Leather?

Not every leather-like material comes from an animal hide. “Faux leather” is an umbrella term for leather that’s made from synthetic materials instead of real animal skin. Faux leather is designed to look like real leather. Here are the most common types of faux leather on the market today:

• PU Leather – This is a fabric base that has been coated with polyurethane, creating a breathable, synthetic material.
• PVC Leather – Similar to PU leather, this also starts with a fabric base, but it’s coated with polyvinyl chloride. This leads to a more waterproof surface that resists stains well. The trade-off is that it’s less breathable compared to PU leather.

As there’s no hide underneath the surface of faux leather, it never develops that rich patina that real, natural leather does. However, faux leather costs less to produce than leather from a genuine hide.

Choosing the Best Leather for Your Craft Projects

When it comes to engraving, full-grain vegetable-tanned leather is best. It shows an engraved design more clearly than any other type of leather, and its tight, natural grain holds up well to fine details without warping under heat or friction.

Thinned or heavily processed leather grades will behave differently under an engraving tool. For example, bonded leather or split leather will engrave unevenly and start to peel. This is because neither option has the dense fiber structure that full-grain offers, and that’s needed for craft projects.

Here at Resparked, we offer a range of beginner leather kits, from our Tote Bag to our Leather Wallet Kit, using only the highest quality full-grain leather. Our kits come with everything you need to complete your project from start to finish.

Top Leatherworking Tips From Crafting Experts

At Resparked, we know a thing or two about crafting. Here are our top tips for working with leather.

1. Master Your Cutting Edge – Having a dull blade is a leatherworker’s worst nightmare. Leather stretches and resists cutting when you use dull tools. This is why not just any knife is going to cut it; you need a razor-sharp utility knife or rotary cutter. When you cut, make multiple light passes with your knife along a steel ruler rather than forcing a single deep cut into the leather. Chances are, the blade will slip and ruin your edge alignment. And if you don’t feel confident cutting leather, don’t worry about it! All our projects come with pre-cut leather.
2. Punch Perfectly Straight Stitching Holes – Clean stitching defines the quality of hand-sewn leatherwork. When using pricking irons or diamond chisels, keep the tool perfectly vertical (at a 90-degree angle to your cutting mat) and strike it with a mallet.
3. Practice Engraving Before the Final Project – Nothing makes a leatherworking project feel more like your own than an engraving. Whether it’s your favorite pattern, a loved one’s name, or something else entirely, you’ll create something that’s truly one-of-a-kind. We recommend always engraving on practice materials first, as this will help you get used to holding the pen and the pressure. The Resparked Customizer™ Engraving Pen comes with practice canvases so you can test your design before working on the real piece.

Leather Care and Maintenance Tips

Knowing how to care for your leather can make a big difference in how long a leather piece lasts, regardless of grade.

• We recommend applying a leather conditioner to your leather every few months, as this will help stop the material from drying out and cracking.
• Don’t place leather in direct sunlight for long periods of time, as the heat and light can fade color unevenly over time.
• Don’t use harsh chemicals to clean the leather.
• Try not to use water to clean the leather, either, as for some leather grades, this can cause water spotting. If you do have to use water to clean the leather, use a barely damp cloth evenly across the whole surface with a specialized saddle soap. You can also use a pH-balanced leather cleaner.

FAQs

How Many Types of Leather Are There?

You can work out how many “types” of leather exist by breaking them down into their main classifications:

• The quality of the grade
  • Full-grain
  • Top-grain
  • Corrected grain
  • Genuine leather
  • Split grain
  • Bonded leather
• The tanning process
  • Vegetable -tanned leather
  • Chrome-tanned leather
• Surface and treatment finishes
  • Aniline
  • Semi-aniline
  • Pigmented
  • Nubuck
  • Pull-Up
• Animal source
• The part of the hide
  • Suede (comes from the split grain layer beneath the surface)
  • Nubuck (sourced from the outer grain side of the hide)
• Faux leathers (non-animal alternatives)
  • PU leather
  • PVC leather

What is the Softest Type of Leather?

How soft a leather feels is usually determined by the animal source, youth, tanning method, and finish. Lambskin (or cabretta/glove leather) is the softest type of leather, especially when it’s produced using a chrome-tanning process and an aniline finish.

What is the Rarest Leather?

Whether a leather is rare or not depends on factors such as historical supply, commercial production, and the origin. For example, the Russian Reindeer leather recovered from the 1786 shipwreck of the Metta Catharina is said to be the rarest leather in the world. This is because it was made using a secret multi-month tanning process involving birch bark oil and rye flour, which was lost following the 1917 Russian Revolution.

Is Bonded Leather Real Leather?

Yes, bonded leather is technically real leather, but nowhere near the quality of full-grain. Bonded leather is made up of ground leather fibers and scraps that are bound together with a polymer coating. It wears out faster than any other grade.

Why Does Full-Grain Leather Cost More Than Other Grades?

Full-grain leather costs more than other grades because it’s made out of higher-quality hides with fewer natural flaws. Manufacturers don’t sand away the surface to hide imperfections the way they do with lower grades. Full-grain also undergoes longer tanning processes, which means its production costs are higher. This quality and attention to detail is what makes full-grain the perfect option for craft projects.

Conclusion

When you’re just getting started with leatherworking and leather craft projects, choosing the right piece can be overwhelming. There’s a lot to think about, from the leather grade terminology to the tanning and finishing process. Full-grain is the best option for a craft project, especially where engraving is concerned, as it works well with small details. Choosing a full craft kit that includes high-quality full-grain leather can make completing the project much easier, especially if you’re a complete beginner.